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Baume & Mercier is one of the oldest names in Swiss watchmaking and, until very recently, one of the quietest. Founded in 1830, the brand spent nearly two centuries producing well-made watches in the accessible luxury segment, never reaching for the complication heights of its Richemont stablemates or the cultural visibility of its competitors. It made solid, attractive watches at prices that sat between Tissot and Omega, and it did so reliably if unremarkably.
That positioning is now changing hands. In January 2026, Richemont announced an agreement to transfer full ownership of Baume & Mercier to the Damiani Group, an Italian luxury conglomerate with expertise in jewelry and multi-brand retail distribution. The move signals Richemont’s strategic focus on its higher-margin watchmakers while giving Baume & Mercier a new owner that may be better suited to develop its potential in the accessible luxury space.
Origins
The Baume brothers, Louis-Victor and Célestin, established their watchmaking business in Les Bois, in the Swiss Jura, in 1830. The firm built a reputation for quality and won multiple timekeeping prizes at international exhibitions throughout the nineteenth century. In 1918, the Baume family partnered with Paul Mercier, a business partner who helped expand distribution and establish the brand in Geneva. The partnership was formalized under the Baume & Mercier name in 1920.
The brand joined the Richemont portfolio (then the Vendome Group) in 1988, where it served as the group’s most accessible watch brand, positioned below IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, and the other specialist watchmakers. This positioning gave Baume & Mercier access to Richemont’s infrastructure but also limited its profile. The brand was never the priority in a portfolio that included Cartier and Vacheron Constantin.
The Collections
The Riviera is Baume & Mercier’s most distinctive and commercially important collection. Originally introduced in 1973 as one of the early steel luxury sport watches (arriving just a year after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak), the Riviera features a twelve-sided bezel inspired by the sculptural landscape of the Côte d’Azur. It was relaunched in 2021 to considerable success, capitalizing on the broader market trend toward integrated-bracelet sport watches. The current Riviera is available in 36mm and 42mm cases, with automatic and chronograph configurations, at retail prices ranging from approximately $3,000 to $5,500.
The Classima is the brand’s dress watch line, offering clean, classical dials with Roman numeral or stick indices in round cases. It serves as an entry point to the brand, with quartz models starting under $1,500 and automatic versions from approximately $2,000. The Clifton collection occupies the middle ground, with slightly sportier proportions and more refined finishing than the Classima. The Clifton Baumatic, introduced in 2018, features an in-house movement (developed using Richemont’s shared movement resources) with a silicon hairspring and five-day power reserve.
The Hampton is Baume & Mercier’s rectangular watch, competing in the same shaped-case category as the Cartier Tank and JLC Reverso at a significantly lower price point. Retail prices for the Hampton start around $2,500.
The Transition
The transfer to the Damiani Group represents a significant inflection point. Damiani operates Rocca, Italy’s largest multi-brand luxury watch and jewelry retail chain, which gives Baume & Mercier immediate access to a physical distribution network oriented toward the accessible luxury consumer. The Damiani Group’s experience in the mid-range luxury segment may prove a better fit than Richemont’s haute horlogerie focus.
Richemont will provide operational services for at least twelve months after closing (expected summer 2026) to ensure a smooth transition. The financial terms were not disclosed, but the strategic logic is clear on both sides: Richemont concentrates on its higher-margin brands, and Damiani acquires a nearly 200-year-old Swiss watchmaker with established collections and global name recognition.
Buying Baume & Mercier Today
Baume & Mercier watches are available at authorized dealers and select boutiques. Availability is broad, with no waitlists for any current production model. Retail prices range from approximately $1,200 for a quartz Classima to $5,500 for a Riviera chronograph.
On the secondary market, Baume & Mercier depreciates substantially, with pre-owned prices typically running 40 to 55% below retail. A Riviera automatic that retails for $3,500 can be found pre-owned for $1,800 to $2,200. A Clifton Baumatic for $1,500 to $2,000. At these prices, Baume & Mercier offers Swiss-made watches with genuine heritage and, in the case of the Baumatic, a competitive in-house movement at price points that undercut most of the Swiss market. For buyers who want a well-made Swiss watch without a four- or five-figure commitment, Baume & Mercier has always been a sensible choice. Whether the Damiani transition strengthens or dilutes the brand remains to be seen.
Browse Baume & Mercier listings on Tempo, where every transaction is escrow-protected and both buyers and sellers pay zero fees. Visit tempo-watches.com.
This article is for informational purposes only. Prices, secondary market values, and corporate details are approximate and based on publicly available information as of early 2026. Baume & Mercier is a registered trademark. Tempo is not affiliated with or endorsed by Baume & Mercier, Richemont, or the Damiani Group.