← Back to Library
Breitling is one of the most historically significant chronograph makers in Switzerland. Founded in 1884, the brand spent the better part of a century as the instrument of choice for pilots, astronauts, and anyone who needed a reliable mechanical timer in a high-stakes environment. Its Navitimer, introduced in 1952 with an integrated flight computer on the bezel, is one of the most iconic watch designs of the twentieth century and remains in production today.
The brand’s modern chapter is defined by a transformation that began in 2017 under CEO Georges Kern, who repositioned Breitling from a niche aviation specialist into a broader luxury lifestyle brand while maintaining its core identity as a maker of chronographs and professional instruments. The results have been commercially strong, though the shift has divided longtime fans who preferred the brand’s more utilitarian former identity.
Origins
Léon Breitling founded his workshop in Saint-Imier in 1884, initially specializing in chronographs and precision timers. The brand’s early innovations were focused on timing instruments rather than wristwatches: it developed independent chronograph pushers (1915, separating the start/stop and reset functions) and introduced the second independent pusher at 4 o’clock (1934, creating the two-button chronograph layout that is now standard across the industry). These were not incremental improvements. They defined the physical interface that every modern chronograph still uses.
The aviation connection solidified in the post-war decades. Breitling supplied cockpit chronographs to military and civilian aircraft. The Navitimer, introduced in 1952 and adopted by the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) as its official watch, embedded a circular slide rule into the bezel that could calculate fuel consumption, airspeed, climb rates, and unit conversions. It was a genuinely functional instrument for pilots, not a decorative nod to aviation. In 1962, astronaut Scott Carpenter wore a modified Navitimer (the Cosmonaute, with a 24-hour dial) during his orbital Mercury-Atlas 7 mission.
The Collections
The Navitimer remains Breitling’s flagship. The current collection retains the slide-rule bezel and the dense, instrument-dial aesthetic of the original, updated with modern dimensions (41mm, 43mm, 46mm) and Breitling’s in-house B01 chronograph movement. Retail prices start around $8,900 for the 41mm automatic chronograph in steel. On the secondary market, Navitimers trade for $5,500 to $7,500 for recent references, representing strong value for an in-house chronograph with genuine aviation heritage.
The Superocean is Breitling’s dive watch line, available in sizes from 36mm to 46mm with water resistance up to 2,000 meters for the professional variants. The Superocean Heritage, with its mesh bracelet and cleaner dial, is the more refined version and has become one of Breitling’s stronger sellers. Retail prices range from approximately $4,600 to $6,500.
The Chronomat, originally introduced in 1984 as a pilot’s chronograph with a rider tab bezel, has been repositioned as Breitling’s everyday luxury sport watch. The current Chronomat is offered in 36mm, 40mm, and 42mm cases with either a chronograph or time-only configuration on an integrated bracelet. The Premier collection houses Breitling’s dressier offerings, including chronographs, day-dates, and the Duograph (a split-seconds rattrapante chronograph).
The Avenger is Breitling’s most overtly military-inspired collection, with large cases (42mm to 48mm), high water resistance, and bold, legible dials. The Professional line includes the Endurance Pro (a SuperQuartz chronograph in lightweight Breitlight polymer, designed for athletes) and the Aerospace (a multifunctional analog-digital watch in titanium).
The B01 Movement
Breitling’s most significant technical development in the modern era is the Manufacture Caliber B01, an in-house automatic chronograph movement introduced in 2009. The B01 features a column-wheel chronograph mechanism, a vertical clutch engagement (which allows the chronograph to be started without affecting the amplitude of the balance), and a 70-hour power reserve. It is COSC chronometer certified.
The B01 was a statement of independence. Before its introduction, Breitling relied primarily on ETA and Valjoux movements for its chronographs. Developing an in-house chronograph caliber placed Breitling in a smaller group of brands (alongside Rolex, Omega, Zenith, and a handful of others) capable of producing this complication internally. Tudor later partnered with Breitling to co-develop the MT5813 chronograph movement, which is based on the B01 architecture, further validating the caliber’s quality.
Buying Breitling Today
Breitling watches are available at authorized dealers and Breitling boutiques. The brand is privately held: CVC Capital Partners acquired Breitling from the Schneider family in 2017 for an estimated €800 million, and Partners Group subsequently increased its stake to become the majority shareholder in 2023, with CVC retaining a minority position. The brand has been expanding its retail footprint globally. Availability is good across the lineup, with no significant waitlists for current production models.
Retail prices range from approximately $4,600 for a Superocean to $8,900 for a Navitimer B01 to $10,000 and above for Premier and special edition references. On the secondary market, Breitling depreciates 25 to 40% from retail, making it one of the stronger value plays in the Swiss chronograph space. A pre-owned Navitimer B01 for $5,500 to $7,500 delivers an in-house chronograph movement, COSC certification, and over 70 years of aviation heritage at a price point that few competitors can match.
Breitling’s appeal lies in the intersection of mechanical substance and functional heritage. The brand does not make the thinnest dress watch or the most complicated tourbillon. What it makes, better than almost anyone, is chronographs. If timing instruments are what draw you to mechanical watchmaking, Breitling has a legitimate claim on your attention.
Browse Breitling listings on Tempo, where every transaction is escrow-protected and both buyers and sellers pay zero fees. Visit tempo-watches.com.
This article is for informational purposes only. Prices, secondary market values, and specifications are approximate and based on market conditions as of early 2026. Breitling is a registered trademark of Breitling SA. Tempo is not affiliated with or endorsed by Breitling.